Up early, breakfast eaten, cooler filled with ice from the hallway icemaker and the car filled with our 7th tank of gas – all by 8:15 – and we’re on our way to Yellowstone. We take highway 89/6 through the tan, rocky Utah landscape in anticipation of the 500 mile, 9 hour drive. While the high rocky cliffs on both sides are similar to those in New Mexico they’ve melded into an almost continuous feature and the highway seems to be squeezing its needs from scant opportunities between the rock. And so it goes until we reach the multi-city density that makes up the Salt Lake City metropolitan area – packed with chaotic commercial groupings and characterless stucco-clad suburban tracts all competing for available land between these steep mountains. We are relieved to make the turn onto interstate 80 east toward Evanston, Wyoming and away from Salt Lake City.
On I-80 we start a slight but steady climb from Salt Lake’s average 4300 feet elevation and enjoy the relative solitude. Echo Canyon is especially beautiful, with steep cliffs of stratified rock with more red than we’d seen earlier in the day. Within an hour we’re seeing the landscape change from red/tan to shades of green, signaling higher elevations and, of course, a new state – Wyoming. Once in Evanston we head north on 89/16 which seems to follow a fertile valley bottom with mountains off in the distance. This road snakes west back into northern Utah, back into Wyoming, eventually west into Idaho and finally back into Wyoming where we eventually enter Bridger National Forest where we share the available space with Snake River. By this time we’ve left the expansive meadows friendly to cattle habitat and are now among mountains, thickened conifers and cooler temperatures. We’re both hungry and look for a turn off to have lunch next to the river. We finally find one where horse trailers are not allowed (we’ve seen many riders and their vehicles) and the small parking lot will not accommodate rafting trailers (the Snake River has great rapids and the previous 2 turnoffs were filled with large groups of shirtless revelers). There’s no one here and access to the shallow river is wide. We relax, make sandwiches with the last of our provisions and simply hang out for a while – we’ve made good distance and have plenty of time to get to Madison Campground with ample daylight.
Fed and rested we hit the road, stop in Jackson for additional gas and enough food to last a couple more days. Densely packed Jackson is buzzing with tourists. Obviously an upscale destination it is almost Disney-esque with a pioneer theme – saloons, western wear stores and animal-themed restaurants. While everything is clean and crisp it is also artificial and we can’t wait to get out. Luckily Jackson and its environs are surrounded by National forests and at the edge of what is a tight “city limits” we’re in Grand Teton National Park/National Elk Refuge. The immediate landscape is flat meadowland with a mild, wide Flat Creek reflecting the snow-capped Grand Tetons off in the distance. Aaaaahhhhh.
I’ve driven this route before, with Gillian, and it is no less impressive this time. Driving along this open valley with blue/purple mountains in the distance is a perfect approach to the south entry to Yellowstone and within an hour we’re making the turn into the park, amid the thick conifer forest, and stop by the roadside to view a female moose drinking in the river. Naturally I fumble with my camera, trying to changes lenses for a 200mm and by that time the moose has returned to shore and disappeared immediately into the tall grass. We’re both very happy to be here and within another hour we’ve arrived at Madison Campground, gathered our firewood and set the tent. After a dinner of hot dogs and chips (we are primitive with no cooking equipment except what we fashion from sticks) we spend the remainder of the evening sitting on the bank of Madison River – a slow, wide and shallow river across which beautiful mountains and a thick stand of fir trees that are situated to reflect the setting western sun. They seem to be supernaturally illuminated – bright green – against a backdrop and foreground of muted landscape due to a lack of the same light. Gillian and I sat on this same bank marveling at the calm beauty just 3 years ago. A great place to hang out with your kids…..
With a low temperature of the high 30s/low 40s we hang out until the sun is completely gone and finally hit the sack, anticipating an early day tomorrow where Avery will be on the prowl for wild animals.
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